| Welcome to "THE PUMAMOUSE'S MOST COMMONLY USED CROCHET STITCHES" webpage of The Pumamouse Website. |
| This webpage has been created mainly for those website guests who are new to the craft of crochet, and also in an effort to eliminate any possible confusion for those who wish to attempt my original crochet patterns. Although it may not be very useful to experienced crocheters, I believe this webpage is necessary, since crochet terminology differs between countries. Please note that I always use the American standards of terminology in all of my original patterns, and I shall use the American standards of terminology on this webpage as I attempt to explain and distinguish the differences between the basic crochet stitches which I most often feature in my original patterns. Before I begin the actual stitch instructions, please allow me to share four very personal and rather important crochet lessons, which I believe might help you as much as they have helped me over the years. LESSON #1 The prospect of learning the craft of crochet can be intimidating, especially if you are attempting to learn it from a book…and especially if it is a book which was written by someone who has all sorts of special qualifications as an instructor and a fancy certificate to prove that they possess an extensive knowledge of needlework. Well, you can relax, because I have no certificates. I don't even have any special qualifications to teach anything. I only know what my Grandma Angela taught me as my very first lesson in crochet, when I was all of five years old, and that is the fact that crochet (and needlework in general) should be fun. If it ain't fun, you are doing it wrong. (I double-dog-dare you to find that valuable lesson in any of the artsy-fartsy instruction books available at your local craft store.) LESSON #2 The second crochet lesson Grandma Angela taught to me was that there is no such thing as "impossible". Awkward, yes…impossible, no. With a little practice, what initially seems "impossible" will soon come so naturally to you that you can do it with your eyes closed…or at least while you are watching TV or otherwise totally distracted. Really. Don't believe me? When was the last time you had to think about the process of tying the laces on your shoes? And yet, when you were first learning how to do it, it seemed "impossible". I rest my case. LESSON #3 If you have ever tried to learn how to crochet from a book or printed pattern, without the benefit of a full explanation or personal instruction, you were probably bewildered by the irksome abbreviations. I know what the abbreviations mean, and yet they bother me, just because I know that they are a deterrent for too many would-be crocheters. For a beginner, reading a pattern which is laced with numbers and letter abbreviations is a nightmare. The abbreviations look like some sort of secret code developed by NASA. A crochet pattern need not be so complicated as rocket science! Here is my advice to anyone who finds those abbreviations confusing, as I do. Take the time to manually insert the full words on the pattern. If there is not enough room in the margins for you to write the full words on the original pattern, either use sticky post-it notes to remind yourself of what the abbreviations mean, or copy the entire pattern by hand and write the full words for your easy reference. Okay, I confess, I am guilty of using those annoying abbreviations in my original patterns when I include them at this website for your possible consideration. Doing so saves space and makes my job as Webmoustress easier. However, I fully expect for you to print the pattern before you begin the project, and if the abbreviations are confusing to you, you should write out the full words in the margins. I apologize for any inconvenience which my use of abbreviations in my original patterns may cause you. The good news is, I will not use any abbreviations on this webpage. I will use the full words with the abbreviations in parentheses, in the hope that reading the words and seeing the abbreviations repeatedly will better familiarize you with them. LESSON #4 The most important crochet lesson which I have learned to date is what I routinely refer to as "Grandma's Curse". If you are working on a project and you make a mistake, (and you will make plenty of them while you are learning), it might be a minor mistake, such as a single missed stitch, and you might be able to continue on in working the project, and adjust to compensate for the error, and you might feel pretty confident that no one will ever be the wiser… BUT…you will know…it will haunt you…you will see that tiny error each and every time you look at the finished work…so you might has well accept the fact that you screwed up and rip out all of the subsequent stitches/rows which you have worked, all the way back to wherever you made the error, and then do it again, and do it right. Yes, I know…it is a dreadful inconvenience, but anything worth doing is worth doing right. And, yes, you may blame me for provoking your conscience from now on, each and every time you rip out stitches to correct an error, but you will be glad you did when the project is completed. And yes, I am quite certain that Grandma Angela is laughing with glee in heaven right now, just to know that her loving "curse" has been repeated and perpetuated via the world wide web. Well, there are the four lessons which I have learned and which I count as general but valuable tools of advice regarding the craft of crochet. Now, it is time for you to learn how to actually work the craft! So, grab your crochet hook and a scrap of yarn, and please allow me to teach you how to work the basic crochet stitches which I most often use in all of my original patterns. |
| Please be forewarned, this webpage does not include any photos as examples. The use of multiple photos on a webpage can cause the webpage to open slowly. The photos may take awhile to download and appear, depending upon the speed of your internet connection, which can be very annoying to website guests who have dial-up modems. Since the photos may not appear on your screen immediately, I have created twelve separate "photopages" to compliment the text instructions which are provided on this webpage. Therefore, if you wish to view the photopages, please click on the special photopage links which are featured within the text instructions. |
| THE SLIP KNOT: ABBREVIATION: "SL KNOT" Every crochet project begins with a simple SLIP KNOT to form the first loop on the hook. And yet, most commercially published crochet books do not explain how to work a SLIP KNOT. It is generally assumed that everyone already knows how to do it. I prefer not to assume anything. (Old adage: When you "ASSUME", you make an "ASS" out of "U" and "ME".) TO WORK A SLIP KNOT: "SL KNOT" Hold your crochet hook before you horizontally, with the hook end protruding out from your hand. Place the yarn over the shaft of your crochet hook, front to back, allowing the tail end of the yarn to hang away from you. Grab the tail end of the yarn with your free hand and bring it forward towards you, under the crochet hook, to form a loop on the shaft of the crochet hook. (There should be a single strand of yarn wrapped around the shaft of the crochet hook.) Place the short tail end of the yarn in the same hand which is holding the crochet hook, just to keep it out of your way. While you are holding that tail end of the yarn in the same hand as your crochet hook, grab the long end of the yarn with your free hand, and bring the long end of the yarn over the crochet hook, back to front, to form a second sloppy loop. Now, allow the short tail end of the yarn to drop, and using the hook, (and your fingers if necessary), pull that second sloppy loop through the first loop which you made on the shaft of the crochet hook, and gently tighten the knot which you have formed by pulling on the short tail end of the yarn. There should be one loop remaining on the crochet hook, and you have just worked a SLIP KNOT. Congratulations! STITCH AND STITCHES: ABBREVIATION "ST" AND "STS" Every crochet project is comprised of specific types and a specified number of STITCHES. The number and the type of STITCHES which are used in the body of the project will vary, depending on the design of the project. The STITCHES which I most often use in my original designs are the CHAIN STITCH, the SINGLE CROCHET STITCH, the DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH, the HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH, and the SLIP STITCH. A PERSONAL NOTE ABOUT YARN OVER: ABBREVIATION "YO" Every time I see the abbreviation "YO" in a commercially published crochet pattern, I think of the film "Rocky", and I hear The Italian Stallion screaming "Yo, Adrian!!!" The abbreviation "YO", which is commonly found in commercially published crochet patterns, is not an indication that the pattern was written by someone who has spent time in the NY/NJ or Philadelphia area, and it is not intended as an exclamation to grab your attention. I was born and raised in NJ, so whenever I see the confusing abbreviation, I am compelled to say aloud, "Yo, I gotcha artsy-fartsy crochet books right here!" The creation of nearly every crochet STITCH involves the action of bringing the YARN OVER the crochet hook, one or more times, in order to grab the yarn with the hook and subsequently pull that yarn through one or more of the loops which are resting on the shaft of the crochet hook. In my opinion, the term "YO" should be reserved for grabbing someone's attention. Unless otherwise indicated, when bringing the YARN OVER the crochet hook, you should always bring the yarn towards you, back to front, over the hook, to wrap it halfway around the hook. Do not bring the yarn under the hook and away from you. And, do not wrap the yarn completely around the hook to form a circle. Remember, YARN OVER just means to bring the yarn over the hook, usually so that the yarn is resting in the crook of the hook and it can then be pulled through one or more of the loops that are resting on the shaft of the crochet hook. THE CHAIN STITCH AND THE FOUNDATION ROW: ABBREVIATION: "CH" (OR "CH ST") Once a SLIP KNOT is formed, the second step for most every crochet project is to create the FOUNDATION ROW. The FOUNDATION ROW is comprised of a specific number of CHAIN STITCHES. The CHAIN STITCH is also commonly used to allow the project to be turned. One or more CHAIN STITCHES may be worked at the end of a row before turning the project to begin the next row. The number of CHAIN STITCHES which are worked before turning the project to begin a new row usually depends on the type of stitch which is being used in the body of project. TO WORK A CHAIN STITCH: "CH" With your SLIP KNOT already made, bring the YARN OVER the crochet hook towards you, (back to front), and then draw the yarn through the loop of the SLIP KNOT, which was initially resting on the shaft of your crochet hook. You have just worked a CHAIN STITCH. Congratulations! PRACTICE making CHAIN STITCHES until you are comfortable with the motion, and until your stitches are uniform in size and tension. TO WORK THE FOUNDATION ROW: Crochet the specified number of CHAIN STITCHES as indicated in the project pattern. Whenever you count the number of CHAIN STITCHES which you have made, do not include the loop which is remaining on your crochet hook because that loop is actually part of the next stitch which you will work. SKIP: ABBREVIATION "SK" Oftentimes, after the FOUNDATION ROW has been crochet, as you begin to work the first row of the pattern crochet stitches, you will be instructed to SKIP one or more of the CHAIN STITCHES which you have just worked. The instructions may read as follows: "Skip the first Chain" or "Skip the first Stitch". This is very confusing to beginners because they logically believe that their first CHAIN STITCH is the one which they worked first, the first CHAIN STITCH they made for their FOUNDATION ROW, the stitch which is positioned next to the SLIP KNOT. Well, when a pattern refers to the first CHAIN STITCH of your FOUNDATION ROW, it is actually referring to the last completed CHAIN STITCH of your FOUNDATION ROW. More plainly, it is referring to the finished CHAIN STITCH which is the closest to your crochet hook, NOT the very first CHAIN STITCH which you crocheted. Whenever you are preparing to work the first row of the pattern stitches, you should hold the FOUNDATION ROW of CHAIN STITCHES so that the top "V" of each CHAIN STITCH is facing you. Please be sure to keep the FOUNDATION ROW straight and flat, and do not allow it to twist as you work your first row of the pattern stitches. By keeping the FOUNDATION ROW straight and flat, you will form a nice neat beginning edge to your project. THE SINGLE CROCHET STITCH: ABBREVIATION: "SC" (OR "SC ST") The SINGLE CROCHET STITCH is the simplest and shortest of the basic crochet stitches. To begin, you must first make a SLIP KNOT and crochet a specified number of CHAIN STITCHES to create your FOUNDATION ROW. Then you will be ready to crochet the SINGLE CROCHET STITCH. (Fifteen CHAIN STITCHES for your FOUNDATION ROW should suffice for this exercise.) TO WORK THE SINGLE CROCHET STITCH: "SC" 1. SKIP the first CHAIN STITCH of your FOUNDATION ROW (the stitch which is closest to your crochet hook), and insert your hook into the second CHAIN STITCH. The hook should go under the top two loops of the CHAIN STITCH. 2. Bring the YARN OVER the hook towards you, (back to front), and then draw the yarn through the two loops of the CHAIN STITCH. When you have done this, there should now be two loops on your crochet hook. 3. Bring the YARN OVER the hook towards you, (back to front), and then draw the yarn through the two loops on your crochet hook. When you have done this, there should be one loop remaining on your crochet hook. You have just worked a SINGLE CROCHET STITCH. Congratulations! PRACTICE making SINGLE CROCHET STITCHES until you are comfortable with the motion, and until your stitches are uniform in size and tension. THE DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH: ABBREVIATION: "DC" (OR "DC ST") The DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH is twice the height of the SINGLE CROCHET STITCH. This means that a project made with DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES will grow twice as quickly as a project made with the same number of SINGLE CROCHET STITCHES. In other words, ten rows of DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES will cover approximately the same area in height as twenty rows of SINGLE CROCHET STITCHES. However, the width of a DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH is the same as that of a SINGLE CROCHET STITCH. To begin, you must first make a SLIP KNOT and crochet a specified number of CHAIN STITCHES to create your FOUNDATION ROW. Then you will be ready to crochet the DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH. (Fifteen CHAIN STITCHES for your FOUNDATION ROW should suffice for this exercise.) TO WORK THE DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH: "DC" 1. After completing your FOUNDATION ROW, bring the YARN OVER the hook towards you, (back to front). 2. SKIP the first three CHAIN STITCHES of your FOUNDATION ROW (the three stitches which are closest to your crochet hook), and insert your hook into the fourth CHAIN STITCH. The hook should go under the top two loops of the fourth CHAIN STITCH. 3. Bring the YARN OVER the hook towards you, (back to front), and then draw the yarn through the two loops of the CHAIN STITCH. When you have done this, there should now be three loops on your crochet hook. 4. Bring the YARN OVER the hook towards you, (back to front), and then draw the yarn through the first two of the three loops on your crochet hook. When you have done this, there should be two loops remaining on your crochet hook. 5. Bring the YARN OVER the hook towards you, (back to front), and then draw the yarn through the two loops on your crochet hook. When you have done this, there should be one loop remaining on your crochet hook. You have just worked a DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH. Congratulations! PRACTICE making DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES until you are comfortable with the motion, and until your stitches are uniform in size and tension. THE HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH: ABBREVIATION: "HDC" (OR "HDC ST") I have already expressed my sentiments regarding the baffling name of the HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH in my instructions for my "HDC Afghan". Therefore, I will refrain from doing so again here, save to note that my use of the name "HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH" refers to the American standard. Since the SINGLE CROCHET STITCH is the shortest stitch, and the DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH is twice the height, it is obvious that the height of the HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH is somewhere between. To begin, you must first make a SLIP KNOT and crochet a specified number of CHAIN STITCHES to create your FOUNDATION ROW. Then you will be ready to crochet the HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH. (Fifteen CHAIN STITCHES for your FOUNDATION ROW should suffice for this exercise.) TO WORK THE HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH: "HDC" 1. After completing your FOUNDATION ROW, bring the YARN OVER the hook towards you, (back to front). 2. SKIP the first two CHAIN STITCHES of your FOUNDATION ROW (the two stitches which are closest to your crochet hook), and insert your hook into the third CHAIN STITCH. The hook should go under the top two loops of the third CHAIN STITCH. 3. Bring the YARN OVER the hook towards you, (back to front), and then draw the yarn through the two loops of the CHAIN STITCH. When you have done this, there should now be three loops on your crochet hook. 4. Bring the YARN OVER the hook towards you, (back to front), and then draw the yarn through all three of the loops on your crochet hook. When you have done this, there should be one loop remaining on your crochet hook. You have just worked a HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH. Congratulations! PRACTICE making HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES until you are comfortable with the motion, and until your stitches are uniform in size and tension. THE SLIP STITCH: ABBREVIATION: "SL ST" The SLIP STITCH may be used for a variety of purposes. I most often use it in my original designs to form a nice strong finished edge on a project. I also use it to join granny squares, or to join a new color of yarn in a project. (I have also used it in my more intricately designed patterns to move to somewhere along a row without adding a full row's height to the project, but please don't worry about that technique right now.) The fact is, you are going to use the SLIP STITCH sooner or later, so you had best learn how to work it now. Working the SLIP STITCH into the CHAIN STITCHES of a FOUNDATION ROW can be done, but it may be a difficult maneuver for beginners, because the CHAIN STITCHES of the FOUNDATION ROW are rather flimsy. For the sake of simplicity, I will explain the formation of the SLIP STITCH in a more practical application, as it would be worked if it were being used after the body of a project has been created. This method of instruction will also give you a chance to practice all of the basic crochet stitches which you have already learned. So, are you ready for this little test of your crocheting prowess? If you have been practicing the stitches which I have explained above, I bet you are. If not, please continue to practice the stitches above until you feel that you are ready. Here we go! OUR CROCHET SAMPLER 1. To begin this exercise, you must first make a SLIP KNOT and crochet a specified number of CHAIN STITCHES to create your FOUNDATION ROW. Since this is an "test" exercise, I would like for you to crochet twenty-one (21) CHAIN STITCHES in your FOUNDATION ROW. This FOUNDATION ROW of 21 CHAIN STITCHES will provide 20 CHAIN STITCHES for you to work upon in subsequent rows, plus 1 CHAIN STITCH which will enable you to turn and beginning your first pattern row. 2. Next, please crochet a full row of 20 SINGLE CROCHET STITCHES. At the end of the row, work one CHAIN STITCH and turn. Then crochet another full row of 20 SINGLE CROCHET STITCHES. (This will be Row 1 and Row 2 of our project.) At the end of Row 2, work three CHAIN STITCHES and turn. 3. Next, please crochet a full row of 20 DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES. At the end of the row, work three CHAIN STITCHES and turn. Then crochet another full row of 20 DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES. (This will be Row 3 and Row 4 of our project.) At the end of Row 4, work two CHAIN STITCHES and turn. 4. Next, please crochet a full row of 20 HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES. At the end of the row, work two CHAIN STITCHES and turn. Then crochet another full row of 20 HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES. (This will be Row 5 and Row 6 of our project.) At the end of Row 6, work three CHAIN STITCHES and turn. 5. Next, please crochet a full row of 20 DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES. At the end of the row, work three CHAIN STITCHES and turn. Then crochet another full row of 20 DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES. (This will be Row 7 and Row 8 of our project.) At the end of Row 8, work one CHAIN STITCH and turn. 6. Next, please crochet a full row of 20 SINGLE CROCHET STITCHES. At the end of the row, work one CHAIN STITCH and turn. Then crochet another full row of 20 SINGLE CROCHET STITCHES. (This will be Row 9 and Row 10 of our project.) At the end of Row 10, work one CHAIN STITCH and turn. Now you will be ready to crochet the SLIP STITCH. TO WORK THE SLIP STITCH: "SL ST" 1. SKIP the CHAIN STITCH which you just made to turn, (the stitch which is closest to your crochet hook), and insert your hook into the first SINGLE CROCHET STITCH. The hook should go under the top two loops of the SINGLE CROCHET STITCH. 2. Bring the YARN OVER the hook towards you, (back to front), and then draw the yarn through the two loops of the SINGLE CROCHET STITCH, but do not stop there! Please continue to draw the yarn through the loop which was originally on the shaft of your crochet hook. When you have done this, there should now be only one loop on your crochet hook. You have just worked a SLIP STITCH. Congratulations! PRACTICE making SLIP STITCHES until you are comfortable with the motion, and until your stitches are uniform in size and tension. You may crochet 20 SLIP STITCHES to form Row 11 of our project. At the end of Row 11, you will be ready to FINISH OFF our project. TO FINISH OFF: At the end of Row 11, work one CHAIN STITCH. Cut the yarn about 4" from the hook, then continue to pull the 4" yarn tail end all the way through the CHAIN STITCH loop and tighten it to form a knot. Now, take a good look at the piece of needlework which you have just created, and please pause a moment to realize what you have just accomplished… YOU HAVE LEARNED HOW TO CROCHET!!! CONGRATULATIONS!!! OUR CROCHET SAMPLER may be used to secure your crochet hook when it is not in use, so that you can always find your crochet hook easily and always remember your accomplishment. In fact, you may use OUR CROCHET SAMPLER to secure up to four crochet hooks. Simply weave your crochet hooks in and out between the DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES in Rows 3, 4, 7, and 8. You should also weave the beginning tail of the yarn into the first row of stitches and the ending tail of the yarn into the last row of stitches to give the finished work a nice neat appearance. (A plastic yarn needle is a good little tool for that purpose, but if you do not have one, you can use your crochet hook to achieve the same results.) Once you have successfully completed this exercise, you will be ready to attempt a larger project. Whenever you feel confident and creative, I invite you to browse through the other crochet related webpages which are featured in this subsection. I have included several of my original design afghan patterns for your consideration. I hope that you might find a pattern which inspires you to use your new crochet skills to create your first afghan. An afghan may seem a bit intimidating as a first project, but in truth, it is an excellent project for any beginner, since the finished size of the work is not as critical as it might be in a crocheted garment, such as a sweater. Whether you attempt a larger work using one of my patterns, or if you prefer to use someone else's patterns, I hope that you will enjoy many hours of crocheting pleasure. What's that I hear? You have successfully completed OUR CROCHET SAMPLER, and yet you still do not think you are ready for the real thing? Well, just for the sake of a good giggle, here is the way in which OUR CROCHET SAMPLER might be described if it were found as a pattern in a commercially published crochet instruction book: OUR CROCHET SAMPLER Foundation Row: CH 21, Turn. Row 1: SC 20, CH 1, Turn. Row 2: SC 20, CH 3, Turn. Row 3: DC 20, CH 3, Turn. Row 4: DC 20, CH 2, Turn. Row 5: HDC 20, CH 2, Turn. Row 6: HDC 20, CH 3, Turn. Row 7: DC 20, CH 3, Turn. Row 8: DC 20, CH 1, Turn. Row 9: SC 20, CH 1, Turn. Row 10: SC 20, CH 1, Turn. Row 11: SL ST 20 Finish Off My friend, if you have followed all of the instructions on this webpage, and you have successfully completed OUR CROCHET SAMPLER, I have a feeling that what previously looked like rocket science formulas probably makes perfect sense to you now. So, you see, even those fancy commercially published instruction books need not intimidate you any longer, because… YOU HAVE LEARNED HOW TO READ A CROCHET PATTERN!!! CONGRATULATIONS!!! Now, go and make yourself a crocheted treasure, and please send me a photo of your project when it is completed because I would truly love to see it! The Pumamouse (MaryAnne) December 2004 |
| CROCHET SUPPLIES If crocheting is a completely new needlecraft for you, and if you do not have any crochet supplies whatsoever with which to learn, I suggest that you purchase the following three items: 1. A skein of solid color, four ply, worsted weight, acrylic yarn. I recommend a skein of Red Heart brand yarn, and I suggest a solid color of a medium hue, (not a very dark color or a very light color), so that you will be able to clearly distinguish the structure of the stitches which you will be crocheting more easily. 2. A steel crochet hook, size "H" (5mm) or "I" (5.5mm). I prefer to use Boye crochet hooks, because of the nicely formed shape of the hook, and I most often use size "H" or size "I" when I am working with four ply worsted weight yarn. 3. A scissor. Using a knife to cut the yarn can be dangerous, and using your teeth is too yukky. That is all of the crochet supplies which you will need to get started. |
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